The best thing about this traditional stone taverna in the north of Molyvos is the smoked skoumbri which you can also find in cans (if you are a fan). Seafood spaghetti and grilled octopus are big hits here as well.
This old-school kafeneio-ouzeri in upper Eressos draws a loyal local clientele with 15 varieties of ouzo and excellent mezedes like stuffed courgette flowers, dolma and wilted greens.
1. Kavalouros Restaurant in Skala Eressos
Located just past the ancient site of Antissa on the rocky beach town that draws in most of the gay tourism to Lesvos this excellent country restaurant we simply call Kavalouros is worth a visit. The owner makes great grilled fish and meats as well as Greek salads and vegetables from his own farm. On weekend nights he serves large tables full of Greek-Americans, Canadians and Australians who make up most of the clientele for this remote place.
In the upper village of Eressos on the square he calls the Platia is Samis, another very good restaurant that specializes in a variety of grilled meat and oven cooked dishes. He also serves his own sardeles pastes, gavros marinatos, lakerda pastes and smoked skoumbri as well as local table wines.
The stuffed or fried zucchini flowers (louloudakia) and kokoretsi are excellent as are the seafood pastas and risottos. He also serves excellent grilled manouri cheese on a bed of arugula and fried prosciutto.
2. Paradosiako Restaurant in Skala Eressos
You can’t go wrong with any of the grilled meats, large salads and oven cooked dishes served in this taverna. You will also find a wide selection of pastes, smoked skoumbri and fresh fish. It’s the kind of place you could stay all day if your were inclined.
In the upper village in the Platia is another great restaurant called ’Samis’ that serves as a cafeneon-cafeteria and has an excellent owner named Sam who will join you to eat if not already busy. He makes a delicious koutsomoures with loukanika from Polychnitou and a variety of other sausages and keftedes along with a good choice of salads, horta (domesticated wild greens) and fried peppers to enjoy with a dozen different varieties of ouzo or wine by the carafe.
He also makes a very good dolmadakia and paidaikia. The rest of the menu consists of traditional Greek food. He is the only person in the area who makes what are known as agrio-garides which are like a cross between a shrimp and a lobster tail and are deep fried.
3. Plaza Restaurant in Skala Eressos
While most visitors assume that the best cuisine in Greece is found only in its major cities, fish taverns on Lesvos and in the island’s mountain villages serve dishes that are truly not to be missed. From grilled octopus to seafood spaghetti, from fried skoumbri to lakerda fish sauces and from grilled sardines to calamari, these heavenly meals are the perfect match for a few glasses of ouzo.
You’ll know you’ve landed in the right place when you see the fresh octopus drying on the walls outside. This is a specialty here, and it is the one dish not to miss. Seafood spaghetti, grilled sardines and calamari are also big hits, as are louloudia (stuffed courgette blossoms) and house salad with dried figs and fava bean dip. You’ll also find keftedes, loukanika from Polychnitou and many other meat, fish and vegetable dishes to enjoy with a couple dozen varieties of ouzo or wine by the carafe.
4. The Captains Table Restaurant in Molyvos
Located on the harbor in Molyvos this family run place serves up excellent fresh fish and other Greek dishes. Their specialties are sardeles pastes and grilled sardines along with stuffed or fried zucchini flowers (louloudakia).
The restaurant is named for the captain of a traditional local boat and has an intimate feel. It is a great spot to dine while gazing out at the sleepy fishing boats.
The wine list is vast and Kamal takes a personal interest in each bottle. He travels to Greece several times a year to meet with producers and keep his finger on the pulse of Greek viticulture. He also focuses on showcasing boutique wines and small specialty producers.